Hanaiapa Bay, Hiva Oa, Marquesas, French Polynesia – The vortex effect

LEAVING OUR DESERT OASIS

We have another day of settled weather before some stronger winds are meant to set in. The humans read in the cruising guides that the next bay along was ‘THE BEST ANCHORAGE ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE ISLAND’ and offered ‘EXCELLENT PROTECTION FROM EASTERN WINDS’ and ‘GOOD HOLDING IN SAND’. So we upped anchor and left my lovely beach for the short 9nm trip.

FISHING

We had an excellent trip down a scenic coastline. Dramatic tall cliffs backed by high volcanic mountains. The gently sloping arid plain above separating the two. We could see horses grazing near the cliff edges, dramatic caves and a lovely waterfall dropping into the sea. We were very lucky and got a nice size Mahi Mahi bull. The male of the species, with his dramatic iridescent colouring and big bulbous forehead. The humans have made a few alterations to their fishing technique, as the fish here are so much larger. We will give you a ‘fishing tips’ in the next blog with what we have learned so far.

PRETTY ANCHORAGE

The anchorage is very scenic. A tall rock sea pillar stands guard at the Western side of the entrance. The bay ends in a long bolder backed beach with high cliffs either side. The humans had read in a guide that anchoring more to the East side offered better protection from the swell, and less rolly. They still make wooden outrigger canoes here, and the beach is lined up with colourful examples waiting for someone to take them fishing. You will see the shipwright’s workshop along the village road.

HOW TO GET ASHORE

To get ashore there were three options. If the swell is not bad, you can land of the beach and drag your tender up the rocks above high tide. You can also land on the cement ramp on the East side of the bay, but be warned there is quite the ‘drop off’ at low tide. The last option is using the locals mooring buoys just off the concrete ramp. The last option means a short swim ashore, but there is a fresh water shower to rise off in.

THE VILLAGE

The village is as lovely and scenic as they describe in the guides. We always find it quite remarkable how much effort goes into making, even the tiniest village, beautiful and clean. The shore is lined with picnic tables under the shade of trees. They have widened the end of the two rivers, running down here, to make small ‘ponds’. A couple of ‘open’ style community buildings for events, lots of fresh water facets and a big football (soccer)pitch. Flowering and ornamental bushes line a road that leads through and out of the village. We ran into a group of ladies using ‘weed eaters’ to clear the under growth in a banana plantation and they told us about 100 people now live in the village. Homes are spread out for about a mile up the road that parallels the rivers. The homes are small, but the gardens are beautifully kept and fed by the continuous water supply. Every parcel of land is filled with trees dripping in fruit and the scent of blossoms. In the centre of town is a primary school, a church and a church hall. There is even the well preserved remains of a large 2 tiered stone platform.

Just as you are reaching the outskirts of town we found two very old large stones carved with teki faces. Our first find of this type of stones. A little further another ancient set of ceremonial platforms flanked by two large banyon trees. We also found that the village generated their own hydroelectric power supply. Everyone we met was very friendly and, despite my humans poor language skills, stopped and tried to chat. They asked if the humans needed any fruit, but we are still loaded up from the last bays generosity.

MANTA RAYS

The humans got back late afternoon to be greeted by Manta Rays feeding on the surface all around the boat. They were circling back and I prompted them to ‘stop gawking’ and grab the cameras to take some video footage. I am hoping some of it is good enough to share and we can find some internet to post it.

A BIT OF A ROLLY ANCHORAGE IN STRONG WINDS

The anchorage offered great protection from the strong Easterly winds. Maybe too much protection. The high cliffs blocked out the wind creating a swirling effect instead. This seemed to gradually turn the boat in circle after circle. It was obviously very rough outside the anchorage. The strong swell came into the bay and bounced off the walls to create a random pattern that never ceased to roll the boat no mater what direction we turned. Unfortunately, with our dingy out of commission and the depth we were at, a stern anchor was going to be more problems than it was worth.

So, despite the fact there was a volleyball tournament scheduled for the weekend the humans decided to move anchorages before the strong winds and heavy seas made that option even harder to complete. They decided to make a run back to the island of Tahuata to find protection for a few days before heading over to the big island of Nuku Hiva. We had hoped to stop at the small island of Ua Huka along the way, but the predominately East to Southeasterly winds this time of year will make the anchorages there difficult. We may have to give Ua Huka a miss for now.

FOR OTHER CRUISERS

We dropped our anchor on the East

side of the bay off the concrete dock and slip way. 9 42.858S 139 0.865W in sand at 14m. We tried to get a little shallower, but it quickly shallows on this side of the bay to a shelf 4-6m with big boulders and hard coral fans. Very beautiful, but you do not want your anchor or chain in that. We had a nose with the kayaks and found this boulder and coral field extends quite a ways into the bay. If you get ‘good light’ you can always try to get a little shallower in the centre of the bay. If not stay safely on the deeper 10-14m shelf. You will probably need a stern anchor to avoid the roll, but despite this in strong winds, the anchorage is very safe with deep sand. Quiet on weekdays, the village comes alive when the kids come back from school in Atuona for the weekend. Bring lots of shopping bags to bring your gifts of fruit back.

The guide books ravings that Hanaiapa Bay is the nicest anchorage on the island of Hiva Oa will go a long way to protect our secret freshwater spring and pool.