Panama, San Blas Islands, Naguargandup Cays, Myriadup – A picture postcard island

We had picked up our new crew member ‘Steve’ from the Carti Islands and we were off to find a lovely island to visit.

We consulted the Panama Cruising Guide by Eric Bauhaus and the next cay and group of reefs, called Gunboat Cay, sounded lovely.

When we ‘put the word out’ on the cruisers net we were headed there we got some bad news.  ‘Bring your wallet mate!’ they warned us.  The locals were charging a $20 anchoring fee in this popular anchorage.

Not something that would normally stress us if we planned to stay anchored there a few days.  But there are no bank machines in the San Blas Islands, and my humans can always think of better things to spend $20 on!

So a quick change of plans and we aimed for a slightly longer (15nm) trip to the Naguargandup Cays.

As Steve is staying with us for a month, he was thrown right into sailing duties.  Glad he hit the gym regularly before he came!

After a ‘cracking’ sail we were anchored off the east end of Myriadup Cay in the central Nauguargandup Cays.

This is the kind of island I signed up for crew to visit.

But enough horsing around.  We needed to get started on the serious job of teaching our newest crew member how to snorkel.

It is not easy to trust ‘your life breath’ to a plastic tube for the first time.  Leaky masks do not help either.  But I did my best to supervise instruction.  The shallow waters around the cay afforded themselves to learning.  Despite being mostly sand and grass, there were lots of things to see.  Southern stingray, nurse sharks, sea stars and lots of juvenile fish.

With basic instruction completed we headed off to the shallow reef just south west of the anchored boat.

And I think Steve enjoyed himself.

The humans got back to the boat in time to be visited by a local fisherman selling some of his days catch.

Mr Kuna fishmonger

Mrs Kuna fishmonger.  Note the traditionally beautiful beaded legs and arms.

The humans bought two tuna for $5 and proceeded to murder them!  I am not joking.  One fish went into the freezer for later as fillets, but they changed the second fish into ‘burgers’.  Who does that to fresh tuna.  But apparently the humans were really missing western food, and tuna is the closest thing to beef around here.  So tuna burgers were on the menu for dinner.  But before that there was a bit of ‘domestica’ to complete.
Evening beers and a fire on the beach.  Just do not tell anyone that it is loo paper burning there.  The rubbish has to go some where, and burning is the most practical solution.

Back to the boat for a BBQ and ‘sundowners’.

You put the lime in the coconut and drink it all down.

Oh, this is such a ‘hard life’!

VISITORS VIEW

When I first arrived in the San Blas Islands:

Slightly behind on the time line arriving out of the jungle into a clearing by the bay in Punta Redonda you emerge onto what seems like another movie set. A small wooden pier made of old beachcombed wood juts out into the clear waters with a lush tropical island of palm trees serving as the back drop. A coconut leaf roof shack with a hammock strung inside serves as the post to monitor this landing; three locals stared curiously at me as I stepped down with what they clearly thought was too much luggage. Peering across the water, you are waiting for an old style paddle steamer to emerge around the corner , like something from the “African Queen’.  The joy of seeing your mates you have not seen for years emerge onto deck and call and wave across from their anchored boat was a moment to savour.

Purchasing a Kuna flag:

The obtaining of the sacred Kuna Indian flag for the boat to fly in native waters was a sight to behold. Having wandered through a maze of small tight alleys between wooden shacks filled with children in briefs running around you we found our way to the designated ‘heritage centre’. This was basically also a wooden shack but with a small smattering of bright paint around the object that seemed to serve as the door. After a conversation with some local Cuna women, which was conducted in separate languages but produced an outcome in that the head man of the village of Carti Sugdup arrived. He was very pleased to hear that we wished to purchase such a sacred object. He set about explaining the long traditions of the natives, how he had a very special flag that was used in the anniversary celebrations of two years ago and that he would consider selling this to us if he felt we were worthy of holding it. Explanations of the significance  of the colours and symbols to further our understanding and appreciation until we arrived at what was clearly the most sacred part of what had been some protracted negotiations – the handing over of the special paper to seal this moment of intercultural trade and mutual respect – $10!