SAILING AROUND THE WORLD WITH SPIRIT OF ARGO

BVIs – Salt Island – Home of salt ponds and ship wrecks

Salt Island Bay, Salt Island
Salt Island Bay, Salt Island

Salt Island is one of six  islands separated from Tortola by the Sir Frances Drake Channel.  South-west of the largest of these island, Virgin Gorda,  Salt Island Bay provides a good anchorage in calm weather.

From the sea, the palm lined beach masks one of the islands natural resources, from which it takes its name sake.

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The island was an important source of salt for Her Majesties Navy, and the evaporation ponds still dominated the landscape.

The ponds make for a fascinating walk back in time
The ponds make for a fascinating walk back in time

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But do not be tempted to go swimming
But do not be tempted to go swimming
You will come out smelling very foul, as the ponds are inhabited by tiny brime shrimp
You will come out smelling very foul, as the ponds are inhabited by tiny brime shrimp
But with a great golden beach to swim at, who needs to go bobbing about in smelly salt ponds
But with a great golden beach to swim at, who needs to go bobbing about in smelly salt ponds
And the anchorage affords a wonderful view of the sun set.
And the anchorage affords a wonderful view of the sun set.

The wonders of Salt Island are not just above water, there are also hidden treasures below the surface.

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One of the most famous wrecks in the Caribbean is located just around the corner in Lee Bay.  The Royal Mail Steamer Rhone.

Major sections of the wreck are still intact in relatively shallow waters, making it an excellent dive sight.
Major sections of the wreck are still intact in relatively shallow waters, making it an excellent dive site.

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On the morning of October 29th, 1867, the RMS Rhone was at anchor outside of Great Harbour, Peter Island.

The Rhone, under the command of Captain Robert F.Wooley, had left Southampton on October 2nd, 1867, and was taking on cargo and stores for the return crossing.

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the stillness of the tropical day was undisturbed as the sun blazed down from a clear sky upon calm seas.  As the morning wore on, the barometer began to fall, hinting the weather might deteriorate.  The seas, however, remained untroubled.

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Although the captain was alerted, work was allowed to continue.  Captain Wooley did not like the look of the weather and, as hurricane season was over, he thought it must be a northerly brewing.  Wooley felt they should shift to the northern anchorage of Road Harbour, Tortola.

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About 11am, the barometer suddenly fell to 27.9 degrees.  The sky darkened, and with a mighty roar a fearful hurricane blew from the north/northwest.  The howling wind whistled through the shrouds and tore at the rigging.  With engines going at full speed, the ship rode the storm.

At noon there came a lull in the storm.  The Rhone tried to weigh anchor during the lull, but the shackle of the cable caught in the hawse pipe and parted, dropping the 3,000 pound anchor and some 300 feet of chain.  With engines running at full speed, she steamed seaward in order to seek sea room to weather the second onslaught.

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She had negotiated most of the rocky channel and was rounding the last point when the hurricane, blowing from the south-southeast, struck, forcing her onto the rocks at Salt Island.

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Here she heeled over, broke up into two, and sank instantly, taking most of her company with her.

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She is now home to coral and fishes.

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