SAILING AROUND THE WORLD WITH SPIRIT OF ARGO

Hakatea anchorage and Hakaui valley, Nuku Hiva, French Polynesia ~ Dramatic backdrop and great hiking

Back off sailing again!

SAILING FROM THE ISLAND OF UA POU TO THE ISLAND OF NUKU HIVA

Just when I was getting perfectly comfortable anchored off the island of Ua Pou, the humans dragged me off sailing again. The forecast predicted a shift in the winds and the silly humans had us committed to help a friend back in the island of Nuku Hiva. So the search for the route up to the pinnacles was abandon and we prepared to leave Hakahau. Of course nothing goes to plan with these two!

Surprise, surprise! Everyone helping the humans out AGAIN!

Maurice came down to the harbour at dawn to see the humans off and ended up helping them to get the stern anchor up. Finally free, we were off. But off into what?

Luck did not improve for the poor humans

We were greeted by yucky squally weather. The forecasted wind change was coming early. The humans had ‘grand designs’ on sailing up to Anahoe Bay in the north of Nuku Hiva. After getting my paws pretty soaked a couple of times, I talked them out of it. Hakatea Bay in the south ‘here we come’.

I left the silly humans to deal with the rain. I only popped my head up between showers. Happy to see the island of Nuku Hiva coming into view
Even happier to see the calm waters of our anchorage ahead.
Not much sail to drop as the main was already double reefed. Easy enough to do once in the protection of the anchorage.

HAKATEA ANCHORAGE (DANIEL’S BAY)

The sun came back the following day

The anchorage in Hakatea Bay is well protected. Nice sandy beach in front (to the east) and dramatic mountain cliffs behind (to the west).

Dramatic cliffs rise straight out of the sea

To your side (north) you have the equally dramatic Hakaui Valley.

We will be heading up to explore this valley soon enough but first, take note of the tidal river in the right hand corner of the image.
The bay is well protected from the ocean swell.

The beach in Hakatea Bay is pretty easy to land your tender, Daniel’s house is up one end of the bay. Daniel was famous for his friendly reception to sailors, but has since passed away, and the house lies abandon. The cisterns still collect rain water and there is a shower on the beach connected to them.

A few of Daniel’s family members live in Hakaui Valley and are happy to meet and greet sailors. Portable water is also available on tap in Hakaui Valley. There are serval facets stationed along the river side accessible by tender when the tide is high.

Checking the chain. Boat jobs never end

The shallow protected waters here make a perfect marine nursery for sharks and manta ray. You will see lots of both on your visit. But it is not the wild life that attract my humans to this bay. With no access to these steep river valleys by car, this area of the island is hikers paradise.

HIKING IN AND AROUND HAKAUI VALLEY

The young volcanic islands of the Marquesas, and the inhabitants love of horses, make this area hikers paradise. The humans would be silly not to take advantage of this while they are here.

HAKATEA ANCHORAGE HIKE

Me, relaxing aboard while the humans go off exploring again.

There is a lovely mornings hike along the southern ridge of the anchorage. It starts as a well trampled trail along the waters edge. If the tide is out you can investigate the many rocky pools uncovered.

Once you get to the point you climb up the ridge
Follow the red line up and up and up
It is a steep accent, but well worth it for the view
View of bay entrance. You can see the point we climbed up from.

Once you are up on the ridge you just follow that along back towards the anchorage

Heading back along the ridge top. The anchorage below.
From up on the ridge you get great views up the Hakaui Valley and surrounding bays

Follow the ridge top until you reach a fence and gate. This is where the hike to Taiohae branches off down the south coast of the island. If you would like to read about this hike, here is the link below.

Scroll down to the hikes at the end of the blog

If you are on FB, here is a faster link:

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1342416622800758&id=100010972994907

A series of switch backs will lead you back down to the back of Daniel’s house and the beach

VAIPO WATERFALL HIKE

Hiking up the dramatic Hakaui valley to the famous Vaipo Waterfall

The humans can not get too lost on the Hakaui valley hike up to the Vaipo waterfall as the trail is well maintained. A majority of the trail follows the original stone pathway though the valleys old abandon villages.

The stone roads were so well built they exist today
Along with the stone road, terracing, building foundations and stone tiki remind us this valley was once heavily populated
It is a river valley, so do expect to get your feet wet
The trail leads all the way to the base of the waterfall, but the best view of the whole falls is at about the half way point.

The humans did this hike the first time they visited the Marquesas islands. If you would like to learn more about the waterfall and the hike use the link below:

If you would like to see the Vaipo waterfall from the top? The silly humans have actually hiked to the top of this incredible waterfall as well. See the link below:

Do not forget to stop in and say hi to the few occupancies still living at the foot of the valley. The clean clear river water here supplies the best crawfish cooked in coconut milk you will ever have!

Hakatea anchorage

It is almost time for us to head back to Taiohae Bay. Lets see what mischief these two get up to next?