SAYING GOODBYE TO THE VILLAGE OF VAITAH
It was not easy for the humans to say goodbye to the lovely villagers of Vaitah. In the short time they has spent in the village they were always overwhelmed by their open friendliness and generosity. They were always welcomed when they came ashore, invited for drinks and even dinners. But there was only one beach for me to play on and it only existed at low tide…that was only if the goats did not get there first. So it was time to move on and see new things.
HAPATONI OR HANATEFAU BAY?
The humans bought and downloaded the most up to date guide books for the Marquesas, but still find they have to question some of the things written or omitted. One guide book suggested anchoring in the bay just before the town. A quiet uninhabited beach front. It turned out to be a boulder shoreline with a home stead and a pack of barking dogs. It did have clear and looked like good snorkeling. Another boat was already anchored there, so the humans decided to try the next bay over. Just a short flip around the point of Matautu and the humans found a nice little sandy plateau in the north corner of Hapatoni Bay.
The water was crystal clear and our little sandy spot surrounded by hard coral and boulders abounding in fish. Although again, no beach for me. The humans found the anchorage entertaining. In the evening small baby sharks came in to feed in the shallows around the boat. In the morning spinner dolphin preferred our end of the bay. They came and hunted right up to the boat. I barked myself horse for hours as they regaled us with their ‘name sake’ and leaped high into the air completing vertical twists of joy.
THE VILLAGE OF HAPATONI
We could have whiled the day away watching the dolphins, but we had a village to see before we headed on again in search of my promised beach. In the south end of Hapatoni Bay the villagers have built a quite respectable walled in boat harbour. A good place to tie a dingy or land a kayak. Their endeavors have not stopped there. They have build a stone and tree lined promenade through the village. It passes small, but beautifully maintained, homes, a bunch of different structures used as gathering places and for dance displays. Past the cemetery and the church on up to the village bee hives. They do like their sweets!
The humans had come to Hapatoni to meet some of the craftsmen here. When the cruise ship Aranui 5 came to the last village, representatives and brought examples of their carvings in wood, bone and teeth. The craftsmen themselves has chosen to stay at home and work in their studios. The humans had come to see these studios only to find most were out on a work detail. They stopped at their homes, gardens filled with their wood carvings, but alas they were to miss meeting each other. Probably cheaper this way?
The humans promised me a beach, so we are not sticking around. We are off again to visit another bay. This time the humans are taking me to the North coast of the island of Hiva Oa. Many of the bays here are supposed to be lovely. One is rumored to have a natural FRESH WATER spring that descends into a rock POOL. Magic words to my salty seafarers. Hope we find it!
