SAILING AROUND THE WORLD WITH SPIRIT OF ARGO

Tahiti to the Gambier Islands – via the Tuamotu atolls? – plans for a voyage

It is an over caste day in Tahiti. Clouds, thick with moisture, block out the tropical sun. It is summer in the South Pacific, rainy season, so we were expecting to get days like this. Thankfully, one of these bouts turning into a cyclone, is very rare. But this coming weather system is still set to bring some brisk northwest winds to the island.

So what do you do as a sailor when a bad weather system comes your way?

To answer that question, it really depends on how big and bad the system is. With modern forecasting models sailors get a much better idea of what is coming, and for how long, than their predecessors. As a result we can make much more informed decisions about whether to sail out of the way or seek a sheltered anchorage and ride it out.

The system coming is ‘short and sweet’, so we have decided to move anchor to a sheltered corner and ride out the squalls to come. But there is an ‘up side’ to a passing weather system, if it is large enough, it can reverse the normal easterly trade winds here. The winds can actually blow the other way for a short time. Great news for sailors trying to sail east.

The crew aboard Spirit of Argo had wanted to visit French Polynesia’s most southeastern group of islands the Gambler, but we got bogged down with paper work here in Tahiti. But we just got the happy news that everything has cleared and I have my official landing permit. Yah! So there is no reason why we can not go and enjoy the remainder of the summer in the Gambler.

Note: A family member asked why the summer is better when visiting the Gambler. Heading south, in the southern hemisphere, is like heading north in the northern hemisphere. The water and air can get cold in the winter months. Summer is also the growing season, so many fruits and veg can be found growing rather than dependency on supply ships for food.

Not a lot of people visit this isolated group of islands in French Polynesia. And the difficulty sailing down there is one of the reasons. The other is the distance. Despite already completing a Pacific crossing, most sailors do not fancy another 1000nm passage that will probably face some head winds along the way. But we hope a visit here will be well worth it.

We really loved the islands and the hospitality of the people of the Marquesan Islands of French Polynesia. The only down side of these islands is their lack of anchorage protected from the ocean swell. The Gambier Islands are very similar in geography but are ringed by a barrier reef that blocks much of the Pacific Ocean swell. So we are hopeful the anchorage here will be much less rolly. The people here are also similarly isolated enough from Tahitian modern influence to be much more traditional and welcoming to visitors. The population density in the Gambler Islands is also much lower so, although we have appreciated the beautiful public parks of the Society Islands, it would be nice to have a beach to ourselves and see heathier reefs and more fish species when snorkelling.

So just as I get my paws on terra ferma the humans are whisking me off on another one of their crazy sailing adventures. We will ‘obviously’ be out of internet range for a WHILE. We will update you on the single side band (SSB) radio on our progress and you will be able to read about it here. You can always keep in contact with us on the sailmail account.

First step is finishing preparations and strapping everything down to ride out the strong winds expected, then we will see if we can follow the system down to the Gambler Islands. This sailing malarkey is always 1 part preparation and 5 parts LUCK. Keep you updated.

I know I should not complain about my aqua-fit program, but…..
Being able to run around on the beach again is wonderful. Tahiti has lots of nice public beaches, including on right in the anchorage area beside Marina Taina.
The island of Tahiti is protected by an encircling barrier reef.  The mountains and reef protect boats anchored in it’s lagoons from the effects of most passing storms.

No sooner do I get my paws on dry land and the humans are already planning a sailing trip.

Once the worst of the coming storm passes they hope to follow behind it and sail east towards the Tuamtu Atolls.  Then turn south and head down to the Gambler Islands.  Not sure if we will make a stop along the way.
You can anchor up inside some of the atolls if the winds die on you. Halo and Amanu are the two most popular stop over Atolls for cruisers on the way down to the Gambler Islands
Then it is onto the group of islands surrounded by a large barrier reef called the Gambier
There are passes through this protective reef that sailors use to enter the lagoon inside and visit the islands here
The main village in the Gambler is Riketea on the island of Mangareva. It is here you can resupply, although the choice is best if you time it with the arrival of one of the visiting supply ships.
Other wise you can find your own anchorage on one of the smaller islands to yourself.

See you there….maybe?  Let’s see where the winds blow us.

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