Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva, Marquesas – Welcome to the biggest island in the Maquesas

We are still in the eastern group of islands in French Polynesia called the Marquesas.

We left our lovely little island of Tahuata to visit the other islands further north.  We heard that very few cruising boats stop into the island of Ua Huka, so we thought we would head there first.

THE BEST LAID PLANS OF MICE AND MEN

The humans were a little worried about the south facing anchorages on Ua Huka.  They would be open to any swell from that direction.

But they had heard that the island had one of the best museums and an amazing botanical garden where the humans could learn the names of the local plants and many of the rare indigenous birds.  The island is also supposed to have the best bone carvers.

We sailed north through the night and arrived at the imposing South coast at first light.

We first visited the most southeasterly bay of D’Hane.  This is a big open bay with a beach and village.  Unfortunately a big swell was rolling straight into the bay making anchoring difficult.  We had to move on to plan B – Head west to the deeper, more protected bay of Vaipaee.

Vaipayee Bay turned out to be worse.  The narrow canon walls of the bay funnelled and amplified the waves making all the boats dance erratically on their moorings.

Plan C – Try the uncharted bays we had been given the anchoring way points for from Anouther cruiser OR sail to the next island of Nuku Hiva.  The humans decided to use the fair winds and weather to sail to Nuku Hiva.  Bye bye Ua Huka.

NUKA HIVA HERE WE COME!

The humans had ordered some replacement parts for the broken outboard through Yachting Services based in Taiohae Bay.  It seemed logical to head there first.

Taiohae Bay is the administration centre of the Marquesas.  This is a big open bay located on the south coast.

The entrance of the bay has no obstructions and there is plenty of room to anchor.  We arrived in good day light, but we can see why may boats make Taiohae Bay their first port of call and check in point for French Polynesia.  You could easily and safely make port even at night.

The bay is still open to the southern swell.  So if you do not want to ‘roll like pig’, as we did when ever the wind died, anchor closer to shore in shallower water and throw out a stern anchor to keep your boats nose into the waves.  If you do not mind the swell, the town here is lovely and has almost everything you need.

There is a fisherman’s wharf you can tie your dingy (or land your kayaks in our case) protected from the worst of the swell.  You can buy fish in the mornings or carry on a short distance to a big fruit and veggy market.

Beside the market is a big crafts blizzar and a tourist office where they speak English.  How touristy is that?  But you have to remember, this is the BIGGEST island in the Maquesas.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So you just have to enjoy being a bit of a tourist while you are here.

Although Taiohae Bay is great for stocking up, the main reason we stopped here was to fix the outboard.  The poor old thing needed an new electrical part.  The humans read in a guide that Yacht Services in Nuku Hiva had helped cruisers get parts into the country.  With a broken outboard and no internet they were Saints.  The humans contacted Yacht Sevices (by SSB radio) and the owner Kevin sourced, ordered, arranged delivery and even paid for the part on the humans behalf so it would get into the country and be there when they arrived.

Thankfully the part was just what they needed and the humans had their trusty supplies carrier working again!  Well done to my human mechanics!

With that out of the way, and maybe some laundry and supply runs thrown in, the humans could finally be TOURISTS.

 

THINGS TO DO IN TAIOHAE BAY

Besides the usual tourist shops, there are lots of other ammenities that come with a larger town.  Restaurants, cafes, bakery, hair dressers, dentist, pharmacy and hospital.

Seeing a doctor is economical ($25.16).  Antibiotics also cheap ($11/week).  The humans know this as one of them had some bad dental surgery in Panama and it became infected upon arriving in French Polynesia.  Unfortunately you will not find any dental surgery specialists until Tahiti.  The humans thought it best to stock up on antibiotic, just in case, until we get there.

 

MUSEUM

There is this really grovey grandmother named Rose who lives on the far west end of the bay.  She came to these islands, with her husband, by sailboat to study Maquesan art.  They fell in love with Nuku Hiva and decided to move here.

Her story of starting the first hotel, restaurant and finally the museum is very entertaining.  Worth the walk around the bay to meet her and hear her stories.

 

WALK TO THE NEXT BAY

If you have already walked to the west end of the bay you might as well take the hike over the ridge to the beach in the next bay.  You follow the road up from the museum.  The humans had to give it a miss this time, but Rose assured them it was about 30 minutes.

 

 

 

CHIEFS HOUSE

If you walked to the museum you must stop and appreciate the preserved sight of the last Taiohae chiefs house before the French took over the islands.  It is full of teki new and old.  More of these at the end of the blog.

WATER FALL HIKE

If you follow the road from the chiefs house up the river you will eventually find some small waterfalls.

GET A TATTOO

 

The art of Tattooing has had a resurgence in the Marquesas along with many other cultural traditions that were once supressed.  Many cruisers find the local designs and symbolism as enchanting as the people here.    There is a highly recommended artist in town that has helped many a cruiser join the tradition of “getting ink”.

 

GETTING YOUR FIX OF INTERNET

Anyone hurting for some fast internet to download images and video.  Taiohae has you covered.

TIKI HUNTING

If you like teki and the images they portray,  you will get your fill in Taiohae Bay.

The giant hill top tIki that guards Taiohae Bay.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

THE CATHOLIC CHURCH

In the centre of town is quite the impressive church with wonderful wood carvings that combine both Marquesan and religous symbolism.

The cross marking the road up to the church has a funny story behind it.   It used to be a stone carving of a giant penis.  Church officials did not believe it was the most appropriate marker for their church and had the ‘tip’ of the ‘offending member’s lopped off and a cross affixed to the top instead.

So our them of ‘cocks’ continues as we travel through the Marquesas.

 

FINALLY

The silly humans have gone and messed up again!  They did not follow their mate Russell’s advice and fill their water tanks with rum.  They have discovered that the French have heavily taxed alcohol on these islands.

In there search for an economical SUNDOWNER the humans thought they would try boxed wine.  A box containing 4 bottles of red wine for $25 sounded very reasonable by French Polynesian standards.  So they bought a box to give it a try.  They neglected to read the details on the box.

SURPRISE, SURPRISE!

The wine turned out to taste like alcoholic ribeana.  Checking the box,  it was described as fruitas.  Serves them right for being tight.  Although they now admit, after consuming half the box, the flavour does grow on you???

Silly humans!