IT'S A DOGS LIFE
SAILING AROUND THE WORLD WITH SPIRIT OF ARGO
IT'S A DOGS LIFE
SAILING AROUND THE WORLD WITH SPIRIT OF ARGO
Guadeloupe

Guadeloupe, Deshaies – Bashing up a river and exploring beaches

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We are still anchored up in Deshaies
We are still anchored up in Deshaies

If you want to hang around Deshaies you have to adjust your schedule to ‘Spanish time’.  Despite being a reasonable size town, 90% of businesses still close for an afternoon siesta, reopening around 3:30pm to stay open late into the cool of the evening.  If you are after local fresh fruit, vegetables and bread, get up early and hit the markets before lunch.

If you have never experienced ‘siesta time’ it is strange.  A town alive with market stalls and the call of vendors suddenly shuts down.   If you show up in town at lunch the place will seem deserted.  Sun bleached shutters will be closed and the place will be silent.  Come 3:30pm the shutters are thrown open again to reveal brightly coloured signs or ornate balconies.  Restaurants, shops and grocery stores reopen and all the residence all come back out into the street to chat with neighbours and shop.

If you are not used to having a siesta in the afternoon, you will have to find something else to amuse yourself.

 

Deshaies River Scramble

Note to self:  Never fully trust cruising guides.

A quote from Chris Doyle’s Cruising Guide

‘Anyone ready for a cool, shady, scramble should follow the Deshaies River as it winds its way into the mountains.  A road leads a short way in and after that you follow the river from rock to rock passing many a pretty pool.  Continue for one to two hours and you come to a road that will bring you back down to town.’

Bouldery river passage

Sounds like a lovely walk, right?  I should know better than to follow the human’s into the jungle.

Lots of rock, little water falls and quiet pools of water
The walk started well.  Stepping stones crisscrossed the river and we followed a rough path past many deeper pools.
The jungle was not very dense and we were able to make good progress past some lovely little watefalls.
The jungle was not very dense and we were able to make good progress past some lovely little waterfalls.

 

About 20 minutes in we were all hot and sweaty, with the jungles humidity, and decided to stop for a swim
About 20 minutes in we were all hot and sweaty, with the jungles humidity, and decided to stop for a swim
This is really where se should have turned back. But no, the curious humans wanted to continue and drag me along.
This is really where we should have turned back.
But no, the curious humans wanted to continue and drag me along.
The jungle became thicker and no path could be found on the sides of the river any more.
The jungle became thicker and no path could be found on the sides of the river any more.
The human's thought if they continued up the river perhaps they would find a path further up.
The human’s thought if they continued up the river perhaps they would find a path further up.

 

Instead, as the river ascended the cliffs moved in on either side forcing us to continue along the boulder river
Instead, as the river ascended the cliffs moved in on either side forcing us to continue along the boulder river

 

Two hours in, no trail, and they were still shoving my butt up water spouts and up slippery boulders. Were the side came in too steep I had to swim across pool.
Two hours in, no trail, and they were still shoving my butt up water spouts and up slippery boulders. Were the side came in too steep I had to swim across pool.

It was about here I ‘revolted’ against the humans.  I made my feelings clear by refusing to continue and just turning around and  heading back.

Understanding I was tired and battered, they convinced me to continue a bit further where they found a thinner section of jungle and a gentler slope to climb up out of the river bed.

Thankfully they found a small road that seemed to lead back down the mountain
Thankfully they found a small road that seemed to lead back down the mountain

 

On the way down they got some glimpses through the jungle of Deshaies Bay below
On the way down they got some glimpses through the jungle of Deshaies Bay below
Also the next bay north, Grande Anse, famous on the island for a great beach
Also the next bay north, Grande Anse, famous on the island for a great beach

I was just happy to be back on the boat in the end.  I am not giving up my siesta time for one of their silly adventures again!

 

Grande Anse Beach

Not surprisingly, when the human’s suggested a walk the beach the next day, I said ‘no thanks guys’.

Beach-clear dirt road to beach

At least this route was a well-marked trail.

Beach-palm trees

About a 40 minute hike north of town, the humans said they could hear the surf breaking, long before they came out of the forest.
About a 40 minute hike north of town, the humans said they could hear the surf breaking, long before they came out of the forest.

 

Beach view looking south
Beach view looking south

Grande Anse is a huge beach with the south end almost completely deserted.

At the far North end of the beach you will find a car park and a selection of restaurants, shops and artisans.
At the far North end of the beach you will find a car park and a selection of restaurants, shops and artisans.
Half way along the beach is the entrance to a large mangrove lake.
Half way along the beach is the entrance to a large mangrove lake.

The beach is a pleasant hike away from the anchorage and a great place for a picnic of brie and tomatoes on a crusty baguette.  Perhaps I should have come along with them after all?

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